First Quarter in Q8

Well it has been 3 months since I left Michigan for Kuwait and I have had a number of new experiences both good and bad. The good of it is that I like most of the people that I work with and we manage to entertain ourselves both inside and outside of work.

For instance, this weekend (Thursday and Friday here) a group of 7 chartered a boat to spend the day in the gulf. The previous weekend I drove 2 fellow lawyers to the Saudi border. Along the way we have attended parties, festivals, movies, restaurants and generally just hang out together.

The bad of it is the work environment it often tense-unnecessarily so. I came to find out that the person that hired me is a micro-manager who wields almost complete control over the operation of the firm and most, but not all, of the lawyers.

This result in lawyers reacting in one of two ways: (1) rebellion; or (2) subjugation. The lawyers who have subjugated themselves are actually nice people, but they don’t or won’t allow themselves any life outside of the office. Those that rebel are marginalized and leave or are forced out (as was my friend Gabriel).

One the social side of things, Kuwait has little to offer westerners. This may sound paradoxical given that Kuwait is inundated with “American” institutions and goods (ie. McDonald’s, Burger King, rap music, etc.). Of course much of this comes from the fact that most people here are Muslim and the country follows Muslim rules regarding alcohol, gambling and male-female relations, etc. While certain prohibitions are to be expected, this “traditional” Muslim approach to society appears to lie in sharp contrast to the overt materialism and crassness that pervades this culture. For instance, reports of rape and assault are common and drug use appears to be prevalent. Less severe, but still troubling is the general lack of civility that I see in this country. This is exhibited on the roads of Kuwait where drivers routinely cut you off in traffic, or drive dangerously weaving from one lane the other in order to gain one or two car lengths in traffic.

Further, there is no native culture to speak of. Most culture comes from the west but what is here represents the worst the west has to offer. For instance, movies are edited for sexual content, but violence and language generally are not. Film audiences are not screened so children are often exposed to images of violence and language that, even in the states, they would not be exposed to. Hard core rap music can be heard at fast food restaurants Of course, these issues are also a problem in the states. Unfortunately it appears that attitudes about Americans are derived from the “entertainment” we export here.

Of particular note as well, is this country’s conspicuous consumption culture. Everywhere you turn you will find shopping malls with high-end merchandise. This would not be remarkable except the vast majority of the people working here (myself included) who cannot or will not shop at these places. Their customers are almost exclusively wealthy Kuwait citizens who make up about 20% of the countries population. Bear in mind, however, that not all Kuwaiti’s are wealthy so the actual number of buyers for the Gucci purse and the Rolex watch is a smaller percentage than the total.

That aside, probably the most disturbing thing about Kuwait is the way the majority of the work force is treated and compensated. It is not unusual to see a Kuwait citizen assault a foreign worker (generally Indian, Pakistani, or Pilipino) in public. The foreigner dares not strike back because the authorities will not take the side of a lowly foreigner over a Kuwaiti. Further, many of these workers live on less than $400 a month and must room with other workers due to the high cost or rental housing (non-citizens cannot own real property). Keep in mind that much of their merger salary is sent back home (and they are charged high fees to do so) so they must live on even less.

Westerners also are extended deferential treatment here. At first you find worker’s calling you “sir” at every establishment and insisting on pouring our water when the same is setting on the table in front of you disconcerting. But you come to use this to your advantage because this deference disguises the general inefficiencies of business here. Often, stores advertise items that don’t have or offers that have been cancelled, even though you have a piece of advertising that states otherwise. To the extent you can play the “westerner” card to get what you came for you will.

I don’t mean to sound like a bitter, disenchanted person, but I hoped to find a society that with a bit more substance and a degree of self examination, which I believe it lacks. I thought I would be getting away from the din of advertising, hustle and noise of the states, but I have discovered that this place rivals and surpasses the US in this regard as well as being hotter than hell. I can do without alcohol, sensorship (I grew tired of mass culture at home) and lack of social interaction between the sexes (a positive note for my spouse to be sure) and the climate, but this country does not seem to have a soul. This makes it hard for me to imagine living here beyond my two year commitment.

I also sense that I have become more assertive while living here. While in my case that my not be a bad thing, I don’t want to be a bitter and unpleasant person as a result.

Things have started to change here, however. Women have been giving the right to vote and you often see criticism of “Kuwait cultural” and employment practices in the local media. Also many women do dress in a western style (and are quite attractive to the dismay of my spouse). Some also believe this country will soon allow limited sale of alcohol and allow night clubs similar to that in Dubai. Whether the pace of change would suit my provincial western expectations remains to be seen.

I promised to be more upbeat in the future.